Wines of Valle d'Aosta: Donnas and Nebbiolo
- Ipek Leni Candan
- Aug 27, 2024
- 7 min read
We conclude our Valle d'Aosta series with a deep dive into Donnas. Donnas is one of the smallest subzones of the Valle d'Aosta, located in the eastern part of the region, close to the border with Piemonte. The first records of viticulture in Donnas date back to the 1200s. It is also where the first Controlled Designation of Origin for a wine from the Aosta Valley was recognised in 1971, a testament to its historical traditions and significance in the local economy.
Donnas lies along a narrow valley carved by the Dora Baltea River, surrounded by steep, terraced vineyards that ascend the lower slopes of the Alps, at elevations ranging from about 300 to 500 metres above sea level. This rugged terrain poses challenges for viticulture, but it is precisely this unique setting that shapes the character of Donnas wines.
The vineyards in Donnas are planted on steep, south-facing terraces supported by dry stone walls. This traditional method provides excellent drainage and maximises sunlight exposure, which is crucial in this high-altitude environment. The slopes can be incredibly steep, with gradients exceeding 45°, which necessitates the construction of terraces to create small cultivable surfaces. These centuries-old terraces are connected by numerous steep stone steps and serve to protect the slopes from erosion and reduce the risk of landslides and mudslides. The stone walls also retain heat during the day and gradually release it at night, helping to moderate the high diurnal range. Another benefit of the steep slopes is that they reduce the risk of disease.
The vine training system used in Donnas is the high pergola, known locally as "topia," which is supported by wooden poles or distinctive stone pillars. This system allows grape growers to make the most of the limited space on the terraces. Unlike the low pergolas of Morgex further up the Aosta Valley, which can be as low as knee-high, the high pergolas of Donnas can reach up to four metres. Due to the steep terrain, mechanisation is nearly impossible, resulting in labour-intensive work and low yields.
Picotendro (Nebbiolo)
The most important grape variety in Donnas is Picotendro, the local name for Nebbiolo—the same grape that produces the renowned Barolo and Barbaresco wines in neighbouring Piemonte. The name Picotendro comes from "small and tender grape" (“piccolo e tenero”), referring to Nebbiolo’s demanding nature; it offers much but requires careful attention in return. Locally, it is also known as Picoutèner.
The Nebbiolo grown in Donnas is a unique biotype, distinct from other Nebbiolo grapes due to the specific terroir of the Valle d'Aosta. Besides Picotendro, other authorised grape varieties for Donnas wine include Freisa, Neyret and Fumin for reds, and Pinot Grigio and Erbaluce for whites.
Donnas wines are typically light to medium-bodied with a ruby red colour and exhibit aromas and flavours of red fruits like cherry and raspberry, along with floral notes such as rose and violet. The cooler climate results in wines that are generally less tannic and more delicate than Nebbiolo from Piemonte, with pronounced dried herb aromas and a high acidity that makes them particularly food-friendly.
Piantagrossa
For 396 years, a majestic chestnut tree had grown in the courtyard of an old farmhouse in Donnas, becoming ever more imposing with time. The entire property became known as “Pianta Grossa,” or “the big tree,” in its honour. Unfortunately, in 2009, the 25-metre giant had to be cut down due to disease. To ensure that the spirit of this powerful tree continued to influence the place, Luciano Zoppo Ronzero decided in 2014 to name his newly established winery Piantagrossa. The seeds of history and tradition were already sown, as Luciano’s family had been deeply rooted for generations in the heroic winemaking traditions of the Alps of Valle d’Aosta.
We met with Luciano and winemaker Patrizio, who gave us a tour of the vineyards and winery. Behind the farmhouse, the mountains rise up to shelter the vines. Here, Nebbiolo-Picotendro is cultivated on steep pergola terraces, held up by 600-year-old stone walls. Piantagrossa comprises four hectares of vineyards, perched on the steep slopes of Donnas at an altitude of 450-500 metres above sea level, where everything must be done by hand. They produce 20,000 bottles a year, of which 17,000 is red.
The soil, of morainic origin, is sandy and rich in organic matter, which allows the Nebbiolo grapes to express the unique character of their terroir. The soil provides excellent drainage, an ideal level of humidity, a balanced biological life underground, and a root system that must dig deep to extract nutrients.
This environment enables Piantagrossa to avoid irrigation, chemical treatments or pesticides. Pest control is conducted entirely using sustainable, natural methods, preserving the purity and integrity of the vineyard.
After the tour, we had the opportunity to taste their full range of wines, which includes a Nebbiolo rosé, an Erbaluce white, and three reds.
The Rosé Tendre, made from Nebbiolo grapes picked early and macerated on the skins for 12 hours, was deeply coloured. It offered a refreshing acidity and vibrant aromas of strawberry, pomegranate and raspberry. This was undoubtedly one of the best rosé wines we tasted during our time in Valle d’Aosta, a perfect aperitivo wine for the summer.
The Bianc>One, crafted from 100% Erbaluce grapes and aged in oak for 12 months, showcased intriguing aromas of pencil shavings, dried mountain herbs and citrus fruits. As its name might suggest (“biancone” meaning “big white”), it was a bold white wine made to pair with food.
The 396, named after the 396-year-old chestnut tree, is Piantagrossa’s only Nebbiolo blend, incorporating 10% of other local grape varieties such as Neyret to enhance colour. Vinified entirely in steel, the 2021 vintage stood out for its clean red fruit aromas, beautifully complemented by notes of rose, violet, dried herbs and tea, with pleasant tannins. It was perfect for enjoying now.
The 2021 Dessus, named after the French word for “upwards,” reflects the high altitude (550 metres) of the vineyards and the upward growth of the winery, as well as the grapes in tall pergolas. Aged for 12 months in a mix of French and Austrian oak, this youthful wine was characterised by aromas of raspberries, red cherries, dried herbs and tea. We had been impressed by the fully developed 2018 vintage earlier this year, which had evolved to show delicious tertiary aromas of farmyard, earth and dried fruits. Tasting a younger vintage was interesting, allowing us to imagine how it might evolve in the next few years.
We concluded with their most premium wine, Georgos (γεωργός), named after the farmer who sold Luciano his vineyards when he was just starting. The name also means “worker of the land” in Greek, highlighting Piantagrossa’s deep connection to the land. Georgos is the winery’s only Donnas DOC wine, which comes with stricter regulations compared to their other wines, classified as Valle d’Aosta Nebbiolo DOC. After undergoing a 90-day submerged cap maceration, the 2020 vintage was aged in Austrian oak barrels for 24 months. It displayed complex aromas of blackcurrant leaf, forest fruits, plum, violet, dried parsley, tea and mountain herbs. With its high acidity and ripe tannins, it had excellent ageing potential.
Caves Cooperatives de Donnas
The Caves Cooperatives de Donnas was founded in 1971. Today, it produces around 80,000 bottles per year—a modest output for a cooperative, but significant given the limited size of the vineyards in the region. The cooperative consists of 18 hectares divided among 50 growers, most of whom own very small plots of less than one hectare. The grapes cultivated include Pinot Grigio and Erbaluce for the whites, and Nebbiolo-Picotendro, Freisa, Neyret, Fumin and Vien de Nus for the reds.
The cooperative's vineyards span two key areas: the Valle d’Aosta Nebbiolo DOC zone, which encompasses the lower-altitude vineyards along the flat plains of the Dora Baltea River, and the more prestigious Donnas DOC zone, which includes steep vineyards that stretch up the Alpine slopes.
Although the region experiences lower disease pressure compared to neighbouring Piemonte, thanks to less humidity and windier conditions, powdery mildew and flavescence still pose challenges for grape growers. The latter, spread by leafhoppers, is particularly problematic for Pinot Grigio, which is less resistant to disease than Nebbiolo.
Harvesting begins in September with Pinot Grigio, followed by Vien de Nus for table wine in early October. The Nebbiolo harvest starts in the second half of October, concluding in mid-November with the late harvest of slightly dried Nebbiolo bunches for the Vieilles Vignes label.
After touring the winery, we sampled the Pinot Grigio, the Nebbiolo rosé, the full range of red wines, and a wine aromatised with mountain herbs. Both the Pinot Grigio and the rosé displayed refreshing acidity and were excellent value for easy drinking.
The 2023 Barmet, an entry-level Nebbiolo vinified entirely in steel, was named after the "barmet" caves dug into the mountainside vineyards, which were used for storage and rainwater collection. Priced at under 10 euros, it was a great bargain, offering aromas of violet and red fruit with pleasant tannins and a light body—a fruity wine perfect for drinking now.
The 2023 Picotendro, also vinified in steel but from a superior selection of grapes, had riper red fruit aromas and a slightly more structured profile.
Next, we tried the 2020 Donnas DOC, the cooperative's flagship wine. Donnas wines have a long history, with mentions in records dating back to the 1200s. This wine was made from 90% Nebbiolo grapes and 10% Neyret and Freisa, and aged in large oak barrels for 12 months. It was a developing wine, showing aromas of violet, rose, red fruits and prune, with balanced acidity, medium body, and refined tannins. An elegant and floral expression of Nebbiolo, this was our favourite from the cooperative’s range. While it is delightful to drink now, we believe it could develop positively with a few more years of ageing. Following the trend of other wineries in the Valle d’Aosta that mature their premium wines in the Cogne mines, the cooperative plans to do the same with this wine.
The 2021 Napoleon, named after Napoleon's passage through the Aosta Valley, reflects a historical connection. In June 1800, Napoleon stopped in Donnas and, as historical accounts suggest, tasted and enjoyed the local wine. Aged for 12 months in tonneau, this wine had more pronounced oak aromas, along with notes of geranium, red fruit and dried fruit. With higher tannins than the Donnas DOC, it promises great ageing potential.
The 2017 Vieilles Vignes, a blend of 85% Nebbiolo and 15% Fumin for more colour, was made from grapes harvested later in mid-November. The wine was matured in large oak barrels for 24 months. By the time we tasted it, it was fully developed, offering pronounced aromas of prune, dried fruit, tobacco, farmyard and savoury meat, with high but ripe tannins and well-balanced acidity.
We concluded with the Donatium, an aromatised wine infused with mountain herbs. At 16% ABV, it offered a unique tasting experience with strong notes of thyme, juniper and dried herbs. Locals often pair it with dark chocolate, adding an interesting twist to its distinct flavour profile.
