What are ‘old vines’ and why are they worth preserving?

Old vines are the living history of their terroir, embodying centuries of winemaking tradition. With deep roots and natural resilience, they offer sustainability, unique flavours, and a connection to the past that is increasingly rare. On Old Vine Day (1 August), we highlight why preserving old vines is crucial for maintaining cultural heritage and producing exceptional wines.

First, let’s take a look at the life cycle of vines and what ‘old vines’ are. After being planted, it takes three years for grapevines to start producing fruit. Vines start to produce their most balanced and best fruit after a minimum of 10 to 15 years, due to the amount of time it takes for the young plants to adapt to their new environment and fully develop their root systems.

While there isn’t a globally recognised legal definition of old vine, generally they are considered to be older than at least 25 years, and in some cases, they can be several hundred years old (the world’s oldest vine that still produces fruit is over 400-years-old and is in Slovenia).

Once a vine reaches between 25 and 40 years of age, the amount of fruit it produces decreases and it becomes financially less viable to produce wine from these vines, leading grape growers to uproot their old vines and replant due to economic considerations. However, old vines are worth preserving for so many reasons.

For most winemakers, making and selling old vine wine is a secondary ambition to guarding the legacy of the land and the old grapevines that have come to embody it throughout decades. Many of the world’s old vineyards have been cultivated for generations, if not for hundreds of years. They are a living testament to the cultural heritage and tradition of winemaking in their region. Preserving these vineyards helps maintain a connection to the past.

As a by-product of their long-term history, old vines have usually been planted in terroirs where they’re well suited, which means many old vines are of grape varieties that are indigenous to their region. Their preservation protects these local and sometimes rare varieties from being lost.

Having survived for decades or centuries, old vines often have a resilience that is valuable for withstanding diseases, pests, and changing environmental conditions. They tend to take care of themselves and lend themselves to more sustainable viticulture.

Crop levels are naturally balanced as old vines are not as vigorous as younger vines, removing the need for green harvesting to control yields and canopy management to increase exposure to sunlight. Old vines are also hardier and have deep roots, making them less susceptible to vintage variation – it can take seven years for a vine’s roots to become fully developed, and with roots going down as far as six metres, old vines are more able to withstand drought as they are able to access deeper reserves of water. In fact, many of the world’s old vines are dry farmed without irrigation, which is becoming more and more important as water sources become scarcer and drought risk increases in many areas.

Additionally, old vines have the historic wisdom embedded in their DNA that has enabled them to survive for so long in spite of extreme weather events, pests and diseases. When cuttings are taken from old vines to cultivate new plants, their genetic material is passed on to the new vines, including the old vine’s historic knowledge and adaptations for surviving challenging growing conditions and disease. By preserving old vines, grape growers can promote sustainable viticulture without having to rely heavily on irrigation and chemicals, which is increasingly critical due to the impacts of climate change.

There is also an important social and cultural benefit offered by the preservation of old vines. As old vine advocate Marco Simonit from Friuli points out, the craft pruning skills and artisanal approach that the upkeep of old vines require has resulted in the rediscovery of skills that had been lost to mechanisation and chemical farming in the latter half of the 20th century. This has resulted in a more upskilled workforce which has brought both wineries and their workers financial benefits, and has had a positive effect on the wider local communities.

Alongside their social, cultural and environmental benefits, old vines are often said to produce more concentrated, better quality wines. As the vine gets older, its yield starts decreasing. With a smaller quantity of berries to grow, the plant focuses its energy on ripening the grapes, resulting in more concentrated aromas and flavours, and higher complexity and quality. Old vines, with their fewer leaves and higher exposure to sunlight, also produce berries with lower levels of potassium, resulting in wines with higher acidity. This is a valued quality as the wines are more balanced and have more ageing potential.

There is also an element of selection. Grape growers will tend to stick to vines that produce better quality fruit, and replant those that aren’t performing the best. This way, the best vines will remain and become old vines.

Additionally, although not scientifically proven, there is anecdotal evidence to suggest that old vines often produce grapes with unique flavours and aroma characteristics compared to younger vines. They also, according to Mark de Vere MW, speak of ‘place, not variety’. Many winemakers also agree that old vines reflect their unique terroir more and more as they age. The distinct flavours found in old vines are cherished by winemakers and wine enthusiasts alike, contributing to the diversity and richness of their region’s wine culture.

Many old vineyards around the world go back several generations, if not centuries. The preservation of old vines is key to safeguarding this rich cultural heritage, for a number of reasons. Old vines are a living embodiment of their local wine history which must not be lost. They have adapted to and reflect their terroir, and are resistant to diseases and extreme weather events which are becoming more common with climate change. They are more sustainable, require less human intervention, and have a positive impact on the local workforce and communities. Finally, lower yields from old vines result in more concentrated and intense wines with a distinct impression of the land they’re made in. For all of these benefits, surely old vines are worth preserving and championing.

Learn more about old vines

Decanter. Does vine age matter? Ask Decanter. https://www.decanter.com/wine/does-vine-age-matter-ask-decanter-507104/

Club Oenologique. The drinking hour podcast: Episode 93 - Old vines special. https://cluboenologique.com/story/the-drinking-hour-podcast-episode-93-old-vines-special/

The Wine Society. Winemaking: What makes old vines so special. https://www.thewinesociety.com/discover/explore/the-road-less-travelled/winemaking-what-makes-old-vines-so-special

Wine Folly. Why old vine wines are so special. https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/why-old-vine-wines-are-so-special/

Wine-Searcher. Uncovering the magic of old vines. https://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2019/06/uncovering-the-magic-of-old-vines